The origin of draped garments can be traced back to the Indus Valley Civilization when cotton was first grown in the Indian subcontinent and handloom weaving was invented. The handloom devices use manpower to weave yarn together to make sturdy fabrics. Eventually, color was added to the cotton fabric using natural dyes, such as indigo and turmeric, which is a practice even today. Evolving over centuries, these yards of fabrics cemented themselves in fashion history as sarees and were worn by everyone from the royals to the common public.
The handloom industry is still thriving in India, as communities pass down the textile art from generation to generation. These handwoven sarees are crafted to perfection by artisans, who delicately dye and embellish them by hand after years of training. Whether you want to begin your handloom saree collection or wish to style your sarees in fun new ways, this guide is here to help. Keep reading as we explore the different types of handloom sarees, draping styles, and styling tips to look and feel your best.
Types Of Handloom And Handcrafted Sarees
1. Chanderi: Known as the ‘jewel of Madhya Pradesh’, Chanderi fabric is a blend of cotton and silk yarns. Chanderi’s latest sarees are light and airy, while still having a sheer sheen that makes them perfect for the summer.
2. Kanjeevaram: Originally produced in the Kanchipuram region of Tamil Nadu, Kanjeevaram silk sarees are the ultimate option for bridal garments and occasion wear.
3. Banarasi: Banarasi sarees are made of fine silk and have signature gold or silver details with opulent floral embroidery. In ancient times, they were crafted for royals in Varanasi and still carry the regal feel.
4. Tussar: Produced in Bihar and Jharkhand, Tussar or Kosa silk is made with wild silkworms that feed on the Asan and Arjun plant varieties. The sarees handcrafted with Tussar silk are delicate and lightweight with a luxurious feel.
5. Khadi: Khadi is hand-spun and woven with natural cotton fibers on a charkha, which was promoted by Mahatma Gandhi during the freedom struggle. Khadi sarees can be worn in different weathers as they keep you cool in the summer and warm in winter.
6. Baluchari: Originating from West Bengal, Baluchari silk sarees feature intricate embroidery depicting mythological scenes and nature-related themes. The heavy work makes it appropriate for weddings and festivals.
7. Maheshwari: Mainly made of looms buried in the ground – known as pit looms – the Maheshwari sarees can be made of cotton, silk, or wool. However, its unique feature lies in the border, which typically has five stripes and is reversible.
8. Sambalpuri: Popularly known as Ikat designs, Sambalpuri sarees feature woven geometric shapes. The handloom sarees form an important part of Odisha’s cultural history.
9. Bandhani: Made using traditional Indian resist tie-dyeing techniques, the Bandhej or Bandhani sarees are a signature of the states of Gujarat and Rajasthan. The designs can be created with one dot or up to 7 dots.
10. Paithani: Made of fine mulberry silk and showcasing stunning zari work, Paithani sarees were made in the Paithan region of Maharashtra. The pallu of the sarees features floral motifs and peacock designs.
Styling Tips & Things To Note
1. Different Drapes: The beautifully made handloom and handcrafted sarees should be draped according to their features. If the pallu has a heavy design, let it flow from the shoulder or wear it in the lehenga style by bringing the pallu in the front. On the other hand, pleat up the pallu if the saree has a statement border design.
2. Fabric: While picking a saree with the heaviest embroidery or embellishment might be tempting, consider the weather and timing of the event. You may want to opt for lightweight Chanderi or Tussar silk in the summer and opt for Kanjeevaram or Paithani for the winter. The fabric choice also depends on the occasion as heavier silks will help you shine at weddings, while cotton and linen are more suited for festive occasions.
3. Accessories: Traditional jewelry such as ones with temple designs and kundan work will add an unparalleled charm to your festive attire and match the vibe of ethnic outfits. However, experiment with modern elements such as rhinestone statement earrings and soft metallic chokers for cocktail parties and wedding ceremonies. You can also opt for the simple waist belt chain or elaborate kamarbandh to achieve an hourglass silhouette while wearing a saree.
4. Footwear: Picking the right footwear is crucial while wearing a saree, especially for beginners. If you are not confident about wearing a saree, it is not advisable to add the additional challenge of balancing in heels. Opt for kitten heels or embellished flats to stay safe and secure. You can also go a bolder route and wear sparkly sneakers with sarees for a fusion look.
5. Blouse: You can completely change the look of a saree with the blouse. The safest option is to wear a matching blouse for the classic look. You can also go for a contrast-coloured blouse that will add a pop of color and complement the saree. There are hundreds of blouse designs that you can choose from for traditional and modern silhouettes. The fashion world’s favorites at the moment are curved hems, plunging V-neck, deep backs, ruffled sleeves, and cape blouses.
6. Western Touch: From cropped t-shirts to shoulder strap tops, many today are pairing their sarees with western wear for a fusion look. You can also wear a white satin shirt as a blouse for a bold and chic style. Bring in the belted silhouette of the kamarbandh with a modern corset or a leather belt with a statement buckle.
Conclusion
Handloom and handcrafted sarees are connected with India’s rich cultural heritage and traditions. Every handloom saree is deeply rooted in the region’s history and tells the story of ancient times. These sarees are still highly coveted today and a must-have in your collection. You can style the saree in several different ways for traditional and modern events.